CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

Construction of Simple Weaves

Classification of Woven Fabrics. Design Paper. Plain Weave. Weaves derived, from Plain Weave — Warp Rib Weaves — Weft Rib Weaves — Hopsack, Mat, or Basket Weaves — Denting of Weft Rib and Hopsack Weaves. Repetition of Weaves. Drawing of Flat-Views and Sections of Cloths. Simple or Ordinary Twill Weaves — Relative Firmness of Twill Weaves — Large Twills or Diagonals. Influence of the Twist of the Yarns. Sateen Weaves — Regular Sateen Weaves — Irregular Sateen Weaves, 1-20

CHAPTER II

Construction of Drafts and Weaving ob Pegging Plans

Limitations in Tappet and Dobby Shedding. Methods of Indicating Drafts. Systems of Drafting — Straight-over Drafts — Sateen Drafts. Conditions in Designing, Drafting, and Pegging — Construction of Designs from Given Drafts and Pegging Plans — Construction of Drafts from Given Designs and Pegging Plans — Construction of Drafts and Pegging Plans from Given Designs. Reduction in Fineness of Healds. Heald Calculations — Casting-out in Healds, 20-30

CHAPTER III

Elementary Weaves and their Bases

Weaves constructed upon Sateen Bases — Sateen Re-arrangements of Ordinary Twills — Origination of Designs on Sateen Bases — Extension of Sateen Weaves. Angle of Inclination of Twill Weaves — Construction of Elongated Twills from Ordinary Twills — Origination of Elongated Twills. Broken Twills — Transposed Twills. Construction of Small Weaves by Reversing. Combinations of Twill Weaves — Combination Twills running at 45° Angle, 30-47

CHAPTER IV

Fancy Twills and Diamond Designs

fancy Twills — Large Diagonals — Shaded Twills — Diagonals on Sateen Bases — Spotted and Figured Twills — Pointed, Waved, or Ziz-zag Twills — Curved Twills. Diamond and Diaper Designs — Construction of Diamond Designs upon Pointed Drafts — Diamond Designs that are not Pointed, 47-62

CHAPTER V

Construction of Simple Spot Figure Designs

Methods of Drafting Spot Figures — Distribution of Spot Figures — Reversing Spot Figures — Irregular Sateen Bases — Calculations relating to Spot Figure Designing, 62-73

CHAPTER VI

Special Classes of Elementary Weaves and Fabrics

Derivatives of Hopsack or Mat Weaves — Hopsack and Rib Combinations — Barley-corn Weaves — Stitched Hopsacks — Twilled Hopsacks. Gripe Weaves — Construction of Crepe Weaves upon Sateen Bases — Combinations of a Floating Weave with Plain Threads — Crepe Weaves produced by Reversing — Insertion of One Weave over another — Armures. Honeycomb Weaves — Ordinary Honeycomb Weaves — Brighton Honeycomb Weaves. Huckaback Weaves Imitation Gauze on Mock Meno Weaves — Perforated Fabrics — Distorted Thread Effects 73-87

CHAPTER VII

Special Rib and Cord Structures

Rib and Cord Effects produced in Plain Weave — Methods of Increasing the Prominence of the Ribs — Soleil Weaves — Combination of Weft Cords with other Weaves. Corkscrew Weaves — Warp Corkscrew Weaves — Weft Corkscrew Weaves. Modified Rib and Cord Weaves — Longitudinal Warp Cords — Diagonal and Waved Ribs — Diamond Ribs. Bedford Cords — Plain-Face Bedford Cords — Wadded Bedford Cords — Crepon Bedford Cords — Bedford Cords arranged with alternate Picks — Twill Face Bedford Cords. Welts and Piques — Ordinary Welt Structures — Weft Wadded Welts — Fast-Back Welts — Waved Piques, 87-99

CHAPTER VIII

Stripe and Check Weave Combinations

Forms of Stripes and Checks — Selection of Weaves — Joining of Weaves — Relative Firmness of the Weaves. Classification of Stripe and Check Designs — Effects produced in one Weave turned in opposite directions — Combinations of Weaves derived from the same Base Weave — Combinations of Warp and Weft-Face Weaves — Arrangement of Weaves in Dice Check Designs — Method of Over-Checking Warp Sateen Weaves — Rib and Cord Stripes and Checks — Combination of different Weaves. Construction of Designs upon Motive Weave Bases, 100-111

CHAPTER IX

Special Classes of Stripe and Check Fabrics

Crammed Stripes and Checks — Fancy Weave Stripes upon Warp Sateen Grounds — Zephyr Stripes and Checks — Oxford Shirting Cloths — Harvard Shirtings — Wool and Union Shirtings — Combination of Bedford Cord and Pique Weaves. Construction of Heald Knitting Plans for Stripe Drafts. Comparison of Structures — Diameters of Yams — Setting of Simple Structures — Cloths in which the Warp and Weft Threads are Different in Thickness — Comparative Setting of Weaves, 112-130

CHAPTER X

Colour Theories and Phenomena

Purpose of Colour. Light Theory of Colour — Wave Theory of Light — Cause of Colour — How Colours are affected — Mixtures of Coloured Lights. Complementary Colours — Effect of Fatigue of Colour Nerves — The Chromatic Circle. Pigment Theory of Colour — Comparison with Light Theory — Mixtures of Coloured Pigments — Colour Constants — Qualities or Attributes of the Primary and Secondary Colours — Modification of Colours — Coloured Qreys — Contrast and Analogy. Colours in Combination — Kinds of Contrasts — Effect of Contrast — Simultaneous Contrast — Contrast of Hue — Contrast of Tone. Harmony in Colour Combinations — Harmony of Analogy — Harmony of Contrast — Basis of Colour Harmony — Relative Spaces occupied by Colours — Divisional Colours. How Colours are modified in Textile Fabrics, 130-143

CHAPTER XI

Application of Colour — Colour and Weave Effects

Mixed Colour Effects — Methods of Production — Fibre Mixture Yams — Twist Yam Mixtures. Combinations of Differently Coloured Threads — Colour Stripes and Checks — Simple Regular Patterns — Simple Irregular Patterns — Compound Orders of Colouring — Counter-Change Patterns — Graduated Patterns — Modification of Stripe and Check Patterns — Balance of Contrast in Pattern Range Designing — Colour Combinations in Relation to Weave. Colour and Weave Effects — Representation of Colour and Weave Effects upon Design Paper — Methods of producing Variety of Effect in the same Weave and Colouring — Classification of Colour and Weave Effects — Simple Colour and Weave Effects — Continuous Line Effects — Shepherd's Check Patterns — Bird's Eye and Spot Effects — Hairlines — Step Patterns — All-Over Effects, 144-164

CHAPTER XII

Colour and Weave Stripes and Checks

Stripe Colour and Weave Effects — Changing the relative Position of the Weave and Colouring — Simple Weave and Simple Wefting with Compound Warping — Stripe Weave and Simple Wefting with Simple and Compound Warpings. Check Colour and Weave Effects — Changing the relative Position of the Weave and Colouring — Simple Weave, Compound Warping, and Compound Wefting — Stripe Weave and Compound Wefting with Simple and Compound Warpings — Cross-over Weave and Compound Warping with Simple and Compound Wettings — Check Weave and Simple Wefting with Simple and Compound Warpings, 166-190

CHAPTER XIII

Special Colour and Weave Effects

Colouring of Rib and Corkscrew Weaves — Application of Special Weaves to Simple Orders of Colouring — Construction and Analysis of Special Effects — Combinations of Special Weaves and Special Yarns, 191-204

CHAPTER XIV

Jacquard Machines and Harnesses

Ordinary Jacquard Machines — The Single-Lift Jacquard — The Centre-Shed Jacquard — The Double-Lift, Single-Cylinder Jacquard — The Double-Lift, Double-Cylinder Jacquard — The Open-Shed Jacquard — Sizes of Jacquards and Cards — Ordinary Harness Ties — Harness Drawing-in, Card-Cutting, and Card-Lacing. Jacquard, Harness, and Design Calculations — Sett of the Harness- — Number of Harness Cords to Each Hook — Casting-out in Jacquards — Size of Repeat — Methods of Modifying the Repeat in a Lay-over Tie — Counts of Design Paper — Summary of Calculations — Irregularly Dented Jacquard Designs. Special Harness Ties — Centre or Point-Ties — Mixed Ties — Ties for Bordered Fabrics — Goss-Border Jacquard Arrangements, 204-237

CHAPTER XV

Jacquard Figured Fabrics — Point-paper Designing

Construction of Point-paper Designs — Process of Drafting a Sketch Design — Drafting Designs from Woven Fabrics. Development of Figures — Prevention of Long Floats — Bold and Flat Development — Development of Large Figures — Warp and Weft Figuring — Figure Shading — Shaded Weave Bases — Double Shading — Shaded Development of Figures. Insertion of Ground Weaves — Printed Ground Weaves — Joining of Figure and Ground — Crepe Ground Weaves — Stencilling Ground Weaves, Correct and Incorrect Design Drafting, 237-264

CHAPTER XVI

Composition of Designs and Arrangement of Figures

Methods of Composing Jacquard Designs — Conditions to Observe in Designing Figured Fabrics — Factors which Influence Woven Design — Construction of Sketch Designs — Bases of Textile Design — Geometric Ornamentation — Unit and Repeat Compared. Construction of Symmetrical Figures Reversing Inclined Figures Unit Repeating Designs 264-281

CHAPTER XVII

Half- Drop Designs

Half-Drop Bases — The Diamond Base — The Ogee Base — The Diagonal Waved Line Base — The Rectangular Base — Drafting Half-Drop Designs — Half-Drop Stripe Designs — One-third and One-quarter Drop Designs — Defective Half-Drop Designs, 281-294

CHAPTER XVIII

Drop-Reverse Designs

Half-Drop and Drop-Reverse Designs Compared — Drop-Reverse Bases — Diamond and Ogee Bases — The Vertical Waved Line Base — The Rectangular Base — Systems of Drafting Drop-Reverse Designs — Drop-Reverse Stripe Designs — Vertical Reversing of Figures — Combination of Half-Drop and Drop-Reverse Systems, 295-312

CHAPTER XIX

Sateen Systems of Arrangement

Regular and Irregular Sateen Arrangements Compared — Advantages of Sateen Bases.

Regular Sateen Arrangements — Methods of Distributing the Figures — Methods of Reversing the Figures — Size of Repeat — Methods of Drafting Sateen Arrangements. Irregular Sateen Bases — Four-Sateen Arrangements — Six-Sateen Arrangements — Irregular Eight-Sateen Arrangements, 313-332

CHAPTER XX

Construction of Designs from Incomplete Repeats

Completion of Repeats by Sketching and by Drafting upon Design Paper, 332-341

CHAPTER XXI

Figuring with Special Materials

Imitation Extra Weft Figures — Imitation Extra Warp Figures — Figured Warp-Rib

Fabrics — Rib Designs produced in Two Colours of Warp — Methods of Ornamenting Warp-Rib Structures, 341-349

Appendix, 351-425

Index 427-436