"If a stitch is crooked, the whole dress is torn to shreds" Virginia Woolf, 1933. Charles Wilson Brega James (1906 - 78) was one of the most celebrated and sought-after couturiers of his day, and won ecstatic praise for his highly innovative designs. Without formal training, he created some of the most ambitious, dramatic couture of the twentieth century and, with the breathless support of the UK and American press, came to be the designer of choice for powerful clients including Marlene Dietrich and socialite Austine Hearst. In this book, the first in a new series examining the working methods and dressmaking practices of great designers, James's reputation is re-examined and his most breathtaking designs are analyzed in exacting detail - from magnificent eveningwear to chic accessories. Timothy A. Long explores the previously unstudied methods James employed - uncovering a geometric rigour and passion for materials that enabled the designer to create revolutionary garments. Featuring detailed illustrations and new garment photography, this is the perfect introduction to James's stunning work - valuable to dressmakers, designers and scholars alike.