CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Germany, Trieste, and the Adriatic.

Cologne, 2 ; Dresden, its Churches and Gallery, 3 ; The Church in Austria, 5 ; Neisse, 8 ; Pius Verein , or Church Union, 9 ; Reverential Demeanour at home and abroad, 16; Austrian Silesia — Vienna, 21; Trieste, 22; The Adriatic, Coasting Vessels in distress, 23; Pola, 24; Roman Amphitheatre and Temples, 24 ; Corsola and Melida, 25 ; Conversation on the state of the Greek Church, 27 ; Corfu, 28 ; Church of S. Spiridion, 29 ; Ithaca, 30 ; Candia, 30.

CHAPTER II.

Arrival in Egypt.

Alexandria, 31 ; Eastern Sights and Sounds, 31 ; Turkish Bath, 32 ; "Pompey's Pillar", 33 ; Mohammedanism, 34 ; Franciscan Convent, 36 ; Political Parties in Egypt, 37 ; Catacombs in the Desert, 38 ; Roman Pottery, 39 ; Egyptian Music, 40 ; Mahmudie Canal, 41 ; The Nile, 42 ; Grand Cairo, 43 ; Nile Boat, 44; Streets of Cairo, 44; Mosque, 45; Joseph's House, 49; Mehemet Ali's Palace, 50; Old Cairo, 51; The Pyramids, 54 ; Tombs of the Caliphs, 60 ; Ibrahim Pacha's Tomb, 62 ; The Petrified Wood, 63.

CHAPTER III.

The Nile.

The Dahabiehy or Nile Boat, 66 ; Young Hippotamus, 66 ; Marriage Procession, 67 ; Navigation of the Nile, 68 ; Accuracy of Herodotus, 70 ; Hill of the Birds, 70 ; Convent of Sitti Miriam el Adra, 71 ; Brick Wall of Sesostris, 71 ; Thoughts on the Greek Schism, 72; Egyptian Bread, 78; Crocodiles, 79 ; Siout, 80 ; Excavated Tombs, 80 ; Temple of Anybis, 81 ; Coptic Bishop, Clergy, and Convent, 82 ; Anecdote of Circassian Slaves, 84 ; Achmim, 84 ; Girgeh, 84 ; Kasr-e-Syad, 84 ; Local Superstitions, 85 ; Thebes," 86 ; Temples of Goomeh, 86 ; Remeseum, 88 ; Ahmed Pasha, 88 ; Karnak and Luxor, 95 ; Ptolemaic Temple at Esneh, 96 ; Modes of Irrigation in Upper and Lower Egypt, 98 ; Island of Elephantine, 99 ; First Cataract, 100 ; Philoc, 101 ; Nubia, 104; Zodiacal Light, 104; The Idolatry of the Israelites, and the Religion of Ancient Egypt, 106

CHAPTER IV.

Voyage down the Nile.

A Storm on the Nile, 109; Temples of Abou-Simbel, 110; Ptolemaic Temple at Hierosycaminon, 110; Kalabsche, 111 ; Descent of the First • Cataract, 114; Second Visit to Philce, 115; The People of Nubia, 116; Quarries of Syene, 116; Thebes, 117; Temple - Palace at Medinet Habou, 117; The Remeseum, 118; Paintings and Sculptures in the Tombs of the Asaseef, 121; Negadeh, 129; Dendera, 132; A "Tractarian" Dilemma, 137; The White Monastery, 139; Antinoe, 144 ; Grottoes of Dayr-e-Nachl, and of Beni Hassan, 145; Memphis, 154; Pyramid of Mycerinus, 156.

CHAPTER V.

Journey across the Desert.

Return to Cairo, 162; News from Home, 162; Mohammedan Tomb, 167; Dr. Abbott's Museum, 168; Early Pointed Architecture, 169; Matarieh and Heliopolis, 171; Camel Riding, 174; The Desert, 175; El Arish, 180; Ruins of Raphia, 184; Gaza, 184; Valley and Church of Abou Gosh, 187; Arrival at Jerusalem, 189.

CHAPTER VI.

Jerusalem.

Entrance into the Holy City, 191; Franciscan Convent, 192; Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 192 ; The Stone of Unction, 193; The Sepulchre, 194; Column of Flagellation, 194; Calvary, 196; Traditions concerning the Holy Places, 198; Via Dolorosa, 199 ; Getbsemane, 201 ; Tomb of Our Lady, 202 ; The Writer is received into the Church, 208 ; Easter at Jerusalem, 210; Bethlehem, 215; Cave of S. Jerome, 216; Valley of Ben-Hinnom, 217 ; Jericho, 221 ; Jordan and the Dead Sea, 222 ; S. Saba, 223 ; Valley of Ajalon, 225 ; Cave of Adullam, 229 ; Esau's Tomb, 230 ; Hebron, 231 ; Cave of Macphelam, 231 ; Pools of Solomon, 232 ; Valley of Terebinthus, 237.

CHAPTER VII.

Jerusalem and the Country about it.

The Greek Schismatics, 239 ; Their Profanation of the Holy Sepulchre, 241 ; The Country round Jerusalem, 245 ; Bethany, 246 ; Tomb of Lazarus, 246 ; Convent of S. Cross, 247 ; Mount of Olives, 248 ; Stations of the Via Dolorosa, 248 ; Bethlehem, 250; Catholic Eastern Rites, 250; S. John's of the Desert, 253 ; Prophecy of S. Malachi, 253 ; The Greeks and the Cupola of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 257 The Future of Protestantism, 260 ; Preparations for leaving the Holy City, 264.

CHAPTER VIII.

Carmel and Tabor.

First Day's Journey towards Nazareth, 267 ; Bethel, 268 ; Sichem, 269 ; Samaritan Synagogue on Mount Gerizim, 269 ; Ancient Manuscript, 270 ; Sebaste, 270 ; Plain of Esdraelon, 271 ; Hermon and Tabor, 272 ; Nazareth, 272 ; Saphura, 274 ; S. Jean d'Acre, 275 ; Bay of Acre, 276 ; River Kishon, 277 ; Carmel, 278; The Druses, 280; Place of Elias' Sacrifice, 281 ; Giaffa, 282 ; The Mount of Precipitation, 282 ; Tabor, 283 ; Cana, 286 ; Tiberias, 288 ; Safet, 289 ; Panias, 290 ; Place of S. Paul's Conversion, 292 ; Damascus, 293.

CHAPTER IX.

Lebanon.

Damascus, 294; Murder of a Christian by the Jews, 296; Place of S. Paul's Escape, 298 ; Barrada, 299 ; Baalbek, 300 ; Mass of the Greek Rite, 307 ; Metualik Village, 309 ; Mount Lebanon, 310; The Cedars, 311; People of Lebanon, 313; Duman, 313 ; Visit to the Maronite Patriarch, 315 ; Legend of S. Marina, 316 ; Mass of the Maronite Rite, 319 ; Convent of Kanubin, 320; Mar-Antonius, 321; Eden, 322; Tripoli, 323 ; Djenin, 325 ; Beyruth, 326 ; Bigfayeh, 329.

CHAPTER X.

The Levant, Greece, and Venice.

Bigfayeh, 330 ; Illumination in honour of the Assumption, 332 ; the Arab tribe of Spas, 332; Beyruth, 334; Rhodes, 335; Murder of an English Traveller at Makri, 336 ; Quarantine, 338 ; Conversation with an Armenian, 339 ; Smyrna, 339 ; Bumabat, 342 ; Syra, 344 ; the old Town and Cathedral, 345 ; Church of the Jesuits, 345 ; Character of the Greek Islanders, 348 ; Athens, 349 ; Marathon, 352 ; the Piraeus, 354 ; Tomb of Themistocles, 354 ; the Parthenon, 355 ; Temples of Jupiter Olympius and of Theseus, 356 j the - Acropolis, 357 ; Eleusis, 358 ; Salamis, 358 ; Politics of Greece, 360 ; Nauplia, 364 ; Tiryns and Argos, 365 ; Tomb of Agamemnon, 367 ; Mycenae, 367; Corinth, 368; Patras, 370; Corfu, 371 ; Catholic British Soldiers, 372; Trieste, 374; Venice, 375; the Manfrini Gallery, 378 ; Notice of Cardinal Pole, 380 ; Padua, 382 ; Verona, 383 ; Conclusion, 384.

APPENDIX

No. I.

The Catholics of the East.

The Maronites, 387 ; the Greeks, 390 ; the Syrians, 394 ; the Armenians, 396 ; the Chaldeans, 400 ; the Coptic Catholics, 402 ; the Abyssinians, 403 ; the Latins, 404.

No. II.

The Separatist, or Schismatic Christians of the East, 422.

The Greek Communion, 425 ; the Armenians, 440 ; the Jacobites or Syrian Monophysites, 444 ; the Copts and Abyssinians, or African Monophysites, 445 ; the Nestorians, 447 ; the Protestants, 450.

No. III.

On the Holy Places of Palestine, 457.

No. IV.

Indulgences attached to Places in the Holy Land, 462. List of Dioceses in the Fifth Century, 471 ; Extract from Bingham and Thomassinus, 471 ; Certificate of Pilgrimage, 472 ; Speech of Marshal de la Tour in the Senate of Turin, 473 ; On Gothic Architecture, 477 ; References to the Plan of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 479.