The seat of pharaohs and sultans, the prize of conquerors from Alexander to Napoleon, Cairo has never stopped reinventing itself. Even in this century, as Max Rodenbeck shows us, the city has transformed itself yet again - from a glamorous European outpost into the nationalistic capital of the Arab world. And, most recently, we have been witness to contemporary Cairo grappling with a population explosion that strains every aspect of city life beyond capacity.

From the hashish dens to the salons of contemporary Cairo, Rodenbeck explores the city's stark contrasts. Ancient tombs abut skyscrapers and genteel colonial mansions, and the people, pulled between the cultural poles of Paris and Mecca, struggle with the double burden of an incomparably rich past and a challenging future. With wit and an understanding that comes from a deep-seated love of the place, Rodenbeck brings Cairo to life in all its chaotic beauty.