Machine generated contents note: Part one / Introduction
A brief history of gems in jewelry
Contemporary gem-set jewelry
Gem cutting
Designing settings and mountings-incorporating stones into jewelry designs
Design considerations-metals and their suitability; stones and their suitability
Wearability, durability, and other practicalities
The use of premade settings-compared to handmade
Outsourcing-for stone-setting, casting, and plating
Part Two /Directory of Stones
Precious gemstones-diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald, jadeite, et al.
Semiprecious gemstones-spinel, garnet, tourmaline, topaz, etc.
Organic gems-pearls, coral, jet, amber
Part Three/ Directory of Techniques
Introduction
Getting started-workshop set-up, health and safety
Essential tools-holding media, engraving tools, burrs
Mounting stones (making the settings)
Basic fabrication techniques-cutting, filing, soldering
Advanced fabrication techniques-applied decoration, press forming, forging
Casting and wax carving
Computer-Aided Design (CAD) and Modeling-designing and producing pieces using 3D software
Rub-over settings
Bezel setting-including step bezel, tooled edge, quatrefoil bezel, filed claws
Tube setting-cabochons and faceted stones
Dome setting-settings with a curved base
Collet setting-from templates and from chenier, using a collet block
Other shaped stones-spherical, square, and octagonal stones
Flush setting-into domed surfaces
Roman setting-flush setting for slab-cut stones
Other variations-open and pierced bezel settings
Prong settings
Claw settings
Fabricated collet-from a template and from tube
Basket setting-prongs made from wire
Cluster setting-multiple stones on one piece
Closed back prong setting-to intensify stone color
CAM prong setting-computer-designed settings
Grain settings
Grain setting-raising grains to set faceted stones
Carre; setting-square grain setting with cut away background
Pave;-multiple grain setting
Illusion-making small stones appear larger
Channel setting-for calibrated baguette stones
Pegged settings-for cabochon, spherical, and rose-cut stones
Multiple pegged settings-for clusters of stones
Fancy settings
Combination settings-using different techniques in one setting
Multiple settings-using different settings in one piece
Closed and open setting-controlling the amount of light in the stone and the use of foil
Tension setting-including tension-set collet
Caged setting-including basket setting
"Wobbly" stones-settings that allow stone movement
Swiveling settings-single- and double-sided
Built-up settings-using gallery strip or other devices
Raised and protective settings-using spacers and barriers
Setting from behind-securing the stone on the reverse of the piece
Capping-for drops and briolettes
Kundan process-pure gold setting
Caged setting-using laser welding
Precious metal clay-firing stones in
Casting-with stones in place
Soldering-with stones in place
Setting odd-shaped stones-including uncut, rough stones
Upside-down setting-stones set in a U
Riveted settings-cold joining techniques, including screw threads
Settings for interchangeable stones-settings that can be opened and closed
Spectacle setting-for fragile stones
Wrapping-using wire to secure stones
Mixed materials and other metals-from acrylic and resin to niobium and palladium
Pearls and Gem Beads
Working with pearls-drilling and mounting pearls on posts
Stringing-gemstone beads and pearls
Wired beads-using wire as a support for gems and pearls
Part 4/ Reference
A comprehensive reference section full of essential information about stones, tools, and jewelry-making in general. Includes an extensive illustrated glossary and lists of international suppliers, services, galleries, and organizations.
Moh's scale of mineral hardness-applied to gemstones
Conversion charts-weights, temperatures, and measurements
Tool shapes-burr shapes and graver shapes
Diagrams of stone shapes-historical and modern cuts, cabochons to brilliants
Stone size/weight ratios-calculate the weight of a stone by its dimensions
Geometry formulas-for drawing setting templates
Templates for settings-square/rectangular collets
Illustrated glossary-containing terms, processes, materials and tools
Further reading-other useful jewelry books and magazines
Suppliers and services-US, UK, and international
Galleries and organizations-places to see jewelry and organizations that support jewelers
Index and Credits.