Includes bibliographies.
Translation of the author's thesis, Danmarks tekniske højskole.
No. 4 partly reprinted from Geografisk tidsskrift, 1946-47, and University of California, Institute of Engineering Research, Berkeley, Series no. 3, issue no. 347, Feb., 1953. No. 5 reprinted from Transactions, American Geophysical Union, v. 35, no. 3, 1954. No. 6 reprinted from Coastal engineering 3, Proceedings of third Conference on Coastal Engineering, Cambridge, Massachusetts, 1953. No. 7 reprinted from XVIII International Congress, Rome, 1953, S. II-Q. 1, 1953.