MARC Record from marc_nuls

LEADER: 03411cam 2200373 i 4500
001 9925296705801661
005 20161109080745.6
008 150915s2015 nyua 000 0aeng d
010 $a 2015472507
019 $a906024165$a913518100
020 $a9781594203473$q(hardcover)
020 $a1594203474$q(hardcover)
035 $a99974468429
035 $a(OCoLC)861479073$z(OCoLC)906024165$z(OCoLC)913518100
035 $a(OCoLC)ocn861479073
040 $aYDXCP$beng$erda$cYDXCP$dDLC$dBTCTA$dUPZ$dGK8$dIG$$dFM0$dIK2$dOCLCF$dVP@$dCOO$dLMR$dNDS$dOUN$dHQD$dOCLCQ$dOCLCA$dOCLCQ$dOCLCO$dZCU$dOCLCO$dINA$dMFS
042 $alccopycat
043 $an-us---
050 00 $aGV838.F58$bA3 2015
082 04 $a797.3/2092$aB$223
100 1 $aFinnegan, William,$eauthor.
245 10 $aBarbarian days :$ba surfing life /$cWilliam Finnegan.
264 1 $aNew York :$bPenguin Press,$c2015.
300 $a447 pages :$billustrations ;$c25 cm
336 $atext$btxt$2rdacontent
337 $aunmediated$bn$2rdamedia
338 $avolume$bnc$2rdacarrier
505 0 $aOff Diamond Head (Honolulu, 1966-67) -- Smell the ocean (California, ca. 1956-65) -- The shock of the new (California, 1968) -- 'Scuse me while I kiss the sky (Maui, 1971) -- The search (The South Pacific, 1978) -- The lucky country (Australia, 1978-79) -- Choosing Ethiopia (Asia, Africa, 1979-81) -- Against dereliction (San Francisco, 1983-86) -- Basso profundo (Madeira, 1994-2003) -- The mountains fall into the heart of the sea (New York City, 2002-15).
520 $aSurfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses -- off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a native Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly -- he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui -- is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world's greatest waves. As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs.
586 $aPulitzer Prize for Biography/Autobiography, 2016
600 10 $aFinnegan, William.
650 0 $aSurfers$zUnited States$vBiography.
947 $hCIRCSTACKS$r31786103101967
980 $a99974468429